PCT Days 77 to 83: A Journey Through Fire and Ice
Day 77: The ski lift camp
I awoke to the sound of my alarm, the crisp mountain air filling my lungs. I had camped 3.5 miles behind the group the previous night, and my body was still groggy from the lack of sleep. Despite my determination to start early, I found myself dragging my feet, and it wasn't until 8:30 that I finally left camp. The day's hike was a challenging 28.5 miles, taking me up to and across the back sides of Alpine Meadows and Palisades ski areas. The trail followed the ridges of the mountains, offering breathtaking views of the lake and the base areas below. The climb was more gradual than expected, and I hiked past sundown, the air rapidly chilling as the sun set.
As I made my way through the ski area, I stumbled upon some pink flags lining the trail. I was curious as to why they were there, but I continued on, determined to reach my campsite. I arrived at 9 p.m., having passed below Granite Chief peak and a ski lift. It was truly wild to be camping inbounds of a ski area, even more so than when I camped at Mountain High in Wrightwood. I had no motivation to cook, so I settled for snacks for dinner. My feet were almost numb, a clear sign that my shoes were done for the journey.
Day 78: Truckee Thursday and Donner 40s
We packed up early, eager to meet an old friend of the group, Mountain Goat, who would put us up in Truckee for the night. The trail climbed up and down across mountain ridges, following open expanses of meadows and rocky cliffsides. The air was cool at elevation, and the sun shone brightly. I could see Interstate 80 in the distance and the infamous Donner/Truckee Lake to my east. It was surreal to be in the same place as the party, especially after listening to The Indifferent Stars Above. I gained a deeper appreciation for their struggle and could picture their scenario with kinder eyes.
As I hiked, I encountered several groups of trail runners flying by me. It was all uphill for them, and I wondered why so many people were out at 7 a.m. I chatted with an older fellow with a shopping bag in his hand, and he introduced himself as Mountain Goat. He offered me a piece of fruit from his bag, and we hiked the final two miles together. We then made our way to Donner Ski Ranch for our free 40oz beers, part of the '40 on Old Highway 40' tradition. I was disappointed to find out it was only 40oz of malt liquor, but we enjoyed the experience nonetheless.
Day 79: An almost double zero
The weather took a turn for the worse, with temperatures hovering around 60° and overcast. We were offered another night and hot tub access, and I was tempted to stay. In the morning, we enjoyed professionally-made lattes and a big breakfast. We finally sent home our bear cans, and the drizzle that fell by midday didn't dampen our spirits. We stumbled upon a pop-up tent from Brooks Running, hosting shoe demos and giving away free swag. I got a collapsible 500ml bottle, a keychain, and some encouragement to apply for an open Brooks position.
As we hiked, we encountered glittered-up trail runners and chatted up Post Malone’s #1 fan, Keith the trail angel. We then began our trek over the granite cliffs the Donner Party struggled against. I felt humbled by their perseverance, and I vowed never to compare myself to them. We made our way to the Peter Grubb Hut, a two-story stone structure with a sleeping loft, picnic tables, and an outhouse. I played guitar, my hands soft from months of not playing.
Day 80: Tipsy at trail magic
We had a big goal: 29 miles to Sierra City before the general store closed. We were hoping to resupply and get an early departure. The trail was a mix of up and downs, and we encountered two trail magics. One was a BBQ with wine tasting for a couple getting married. I sampled a rosé and chardonnay, and I was tipsy by midday. I stumbled down the trail for eight miles, and I met Yooper again, who left me in the dust.
I encountered another trail magic with Rice Krispie treats and Capri Suns. I enjoyed the snacks as I made my way to the state highway for the evening walk into town. Sierra City felt like a small town in Vermont, with century homes and a riverbank covered by tree canopy. I met up with the group as we camped outside the back of the general store.
Day 81: Long climb to the Sierra Buttes
It rained in the middle of the previous night, and I had to rush my camp setup. The next morning, I resupplied with Pop Tarts and Keebler packages, glad I had tons of food leftover. We left mid-morning, eating 2.5lb burritos. The initial climb out was 10 miles, switchbacking up the hillsides through the trees. It was humid, and the sun shone through the tree gaps, making shade a priority.
Near the Sierra Buttes, we took the old PCT route to save a few miles and have a better view. I almost fell off the mountain bike track, and I listened to Lessons in Chemistry, which I found disappointing and not well-researched.
Day 82: Burn zone begins
We entered the burn zone of the 2020 North Complex Fire, and the forest was completely torched. I moved slowly, stepping or crawling over soot-covered blowdowns. I saw crews clearing trees with chainsaws and skid-steers, and I was grateful for the two-man trail crew. I pitched my tent on a dirt road among burned trees, and a truck bent one of my tent stakes in half.
Day 83: Meeting PCT royalty
I hiked down into the Feather River Canyon, in the burned land of the 2021 Dixie Fire. The trail was filled with blowdowns, and I was frustrated. I met Aurélien Sanchez’s support crew, and we chatted in French and English. I met Punisher, an ultra runner, and we chatted for a bit. I ran the final five miles toward the road, and I was greeted by the group, Suzanne, and her dog Ollie.
I waited for Aurélien, and Suzanne became very invested in his athletic endeavor. We finally met Aurélien, Nick Fowler, and Punisher, and I was starstruck. I signed my groundsheet, and we cheered them on as they took off into the woods. I was grateful for Suzanne’s patience, and we glided down the curves of the road into Quincy, with Ollie sitting on my lap. It was a rollercoaster of a day, and I was excited for a safe place to land and a nice shower.
